The Crust that Binds

How manifold are the tongues that proclaim the delights of the humble, golden crust? In Haiti, it is revered as Graten; in Cuba, Cocolón; in Spain, Socarrat; in Puerto Rico, pega’o; in China, guo ba; in Colombia, Cucayo; in Ghana, kanzo or emo asi; in the Philippines, Tutong; in Senegal, Xoon; and in Persia, the illustrious Tahdig.

Yet, for all their varied names and distant origins, I find no greater pleasure than when mine is softened by the generous touch of my mother’s fish sauce, a fusion of memory and savor that exalts this modest fare to a banquet of the soul.